mpc motorbikes  ural-uk  dare to be different

We specialize in ural flat twin motorcycles/sidecars from Russia, Dnepr motorcycles/sidecars from the Ukraine, overhead valve and sidevalve versions. Over the years these bikes have been known under various names, cossacks, nevals, urals, uralmoto, dnepr, IMZ, KMZ

Trouble shooting

this page is dedicated to passing on any problems we or owners have had with their bikes and what action has been taken to remedy

oil pump gear cap, thats the round flat cover on the left hand side of engine below alternator, this can work loose and slowly dump your engine oil, we have had one occurrence, resulting in a engine crank seizure, but i am aware of a couple more. check its tight....

coil/ht leads - the russian coils are not the best and can fail hot/cold/warm-when ever they like a simple solution is to fit a aftermarket coil,  single imput twin output cdi unit  which can be located under the tank area out of the way,   ht leads not normally a problem but the russians are now fitting silicon based ones which have caused problems replace with standard copper core lead

Inner tubes - russian inner tubes are not the best, they do lose air, several solutions. replace with better tubes, check your pressures every week, add ultra seal to the tubes

spokes lots of side pressure on outfits, can cause spokes to loosen, biggest problems seem to be non russian tyres, they grip too much, using russian tyres seem to cause the least problems as they let go before the spokes

new air boxes  the later urals have a top entrance to the air box which does not offer a great protection from water getting in, don't be too enthusiastic with the soap, sponge and pressure washer. 2006 urals are coming out with a larger lip but its not 100 percent.... one way to reduce the problem is to create a new air entrance on the bottom of the air box and then seal the top, several pictures on picture gallery 6 show how it has been done....

carbs the first of the jap carbs came with 118 main jets which are too weak we have been replacing with 125 main jets, they now come from the factory with 125 jets fitted, fitting aftermarket free flowing exhausts we fit 135 main jets. there has also been a couple of problems with diaphrams split or incorrectly fitted, if you have no "chuff" from the slider then you may have a problem.

gearboxes not many problems, can collect water via the speedo cable, causing difficulty in changing gears,,  change the oil often

electronic ignition units fairly reliable there has been a couple of sensors fail the biggest problem we have had is the interrupter failing due to the way its made, it is a pressed steel back attached to the shaft, this is only pressed together and can work loose on its self, we have now had made units machined from solid, these are available as a aftermarket upgrade.

alternators this is going to open a bag of worms, there has been failures, but i think the main problem is the ability of the alternator to produce so much juice, if you let your battery run low, when you start the bike the battery will demand loads of juice to top up, this the alternator can produce, but its a massive strain on the cam gears and the alternator,  the bikes used daily have suffered less than those that sit. the new nippon denso unit has a rubber cush drive but it can still supply a massive current if asked to do so again putting a massive strain on the cam gear

cam gears again a few failures, but mainly caused by no back lash on alternator gear, or massive overloading by alternator drawing current.. 

Timing 750cc urals have two marks on the flywheel  TDC and the timing mark this tends to be indicated by a arrow and dot, using the standard timing marks works well on outfits giving low down grunt for pulling power this is aprox 10 degrees TDC  you can mess with the timing and advance it upto a further 10 to 15 degrees this will alter the characteristics losing the low down grunt but giving more higher up the revs

Electrics wires working loose, poor earths(mainly to frame via painted surfaces) connecting blocks working loose, spade connectors working loose

 

more tips and hints will follow when time allows, again if you have any suggestions email them to me

email  mick@uralmotorbikes.info or phone 01455 559123

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